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Pouring a batch

Cooling

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The twenty minutes after pouring decide the surface, and almost nobody controls them.

Slow and even

Natural wax wants to cool slowly and steadily. Fast cooling gives a crust over a still-liquid middle, which is a sinkhole.

Uneven cooling gives one side frosting or wet spots and the other not, which is maddening to diagnose because the formula was identical.

Stable room temperature, no draft, no direct sunlight, not on a cold stone bench.

Where to put them

A single layer on a board, spaced so air moves evenly around each one.

Not in a tight block, where the middle candles cool slower than the edges and come out different.

Not near a door or a window that will be opened. A draft across half a tray is a common cause of a batch that is half good.

Do not move them

A candle that looks set on top can be liquid underneath. Carried, it develops a wave in the surface that sets permanently.

Leave them alone until they are cool through, which is hours rather than minutes for a larger vessel.

The second pour

If the wax sinks around the wick, top up with wax from the same batch held at pour temperature.

Wait until the sink has formed and the surface has set, then top up. Too early and it merges and sinks again; too late and there is a visible ring.

Keep the reserve covered so it does not lose fragrance relative to the body of the candle.

References

No published source. This page is written from practice rather than from published guidance. No extension service or agency publishes on this question for candles, so nothing here is cited, and it should be weighed as experience and not as a standard.
Written from the federal regulation, the CPSC material and the published scope of the ASTM candle standards. The standards themselves are copyrighted documents that must be bought; what is described here is their scope and requirements as published, not their text. Your own burn testing against your own vessel and wick is what establishes whether a candle you made is safe.