Cooling, and not moving it
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What is still happening
A jar out of the canner is not finished. The vacuum is still forming, the set is still developing, and both are vulnerable to being disturbed. Most of what goes wrong in this step is caused by handling rather than by anything upstream.
The pectin network is setting, and it sets undisturbed. A jar carried across a kitchen, stacked, or tilted while that is happening can come out soft when the same batch left alone came out right, which is why two jars from one pan can differ.
The steps
- Lift the jars out and stand them upright on a rack or a towel, not touching each other.
- Leave them where they are. Do not move, tilt or stack them.
- Leave them overnight before judging the set at all.
- Check the seals, then remove the bands before storing.
Judging the set too early
A set continues to firm for longer than most people wait, which means a batch judged at twelve hours is often judged on a product that had not finished. Waiting is the cheapest correction available.
Insufficient time before using is on the published list of causes for a soft set, which means a jar that looks soft the next morning is not necessarily a failed batch. The first thing to do about a soft set is to wait, and that is on it never set.
Why the bands come off
Leaving the band on hides a failed seal rather than preventing one, and the whole point of this step is finding the failures before a customer does.
The seal is the vacuum, not the band. A band left on can hold a failed lid in place and hide a jar that did not seal, which is the one thing you want to find now rather than in a customer's cupboard.