It came out too wet
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The useful question is not how to rescue the batch. It is what this batch is now for.
Why this is hard to undo
Taking water out of honey is not evaporation off a surface. Honey is viscous and holds water throughout its volume, so drying it means moving water from the middle of a thick liquid to the air, slowly, without heating it enough to damage flavor and color.
Commercial operations do this with equipment built for it. Warm air moved constantly across a large surface area, in a space where the air itself is kept dry.
What commercial drying involves
Those are pieces of equipment, not techniques. The relevant point for a hobby harvest is the scale of intervention required, which is well beyond a warm room and a fan.
The reabsorption trap
This is the part informal advice consistently leaves out, and it is why kitchen attempts fail even when they seem to be working.
Honey reabsorbs moisture as it cools. Drive water off in a warm room and then let the honey cool in that same room, and it pulls moisture back out of the air on the way down. You end up where you started, having heated the honey for nothing.
Commercial drying handles this by cooling rapidly in an environment where the air is already dry. Neither half of that is available in a domestic kitchen, and the second half is the one people do not know to attempt.
What the batch is still good for
It should not be sold as shelf-stable honey. High-moisture honey ferments, and it ferments on its own schedule, in somebody else's cupboard, with your name on the label. That is a worse outcome than not selling it.
It remains perfectly good honey for your own kitchen and for baking, where it is used long before fermentation becomes an issue. Kept refrigerated it lasts considerably longer than at room temperature.
And it is the traditional starting point for mead, which wants exactly the fermentation you were trying to avoid. That is a real use rather than a consolation, and a wet batch is a better mead honey than a dry one.
Fixing it upstream
The durable answer is at harvest rather than after it. Take capped frames, use the shake test on the marginal ones, and measure before blending rather than after, because moisture averages across whatever you combine and one wet frame carries the bucket with it.