The line, in one sentence
On this page9
The cosmetic definition
An article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. Every one of the eight products here fits that without strain.
The drug definition
In part: articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment or prevention of disease, and articles other than food intended to affect the structure or any function of the body.
Hair growth is structure and function
Growing hair is something the body does. A claim that a product makes it happen is a claim about a function of the body, which places the product inside the drug definition regardless of what is in it.
A product can be both
FDA gives an antidandruff shampoo as the example: a cosmetic because it cleanses the hair, and a drug because it treats dandruff. Being a cosmetic does not protect a product from also being a drug.
Which half of the shelf this affects
In practice it is the beard products. Oils, balms and butters are where growth claims appear, and shave products are where "soothes", "heals" and "treats razor burn" appear. Aftershave is the one most likely to drift into treatment language by accident.
The cheap version of this check
Read your own front panel, your product title and your first paragraph of web copy as though somebody else wrote them, and underline every verb. Verbs are where the classification lives.
Why both definitions turn on intention
Neither definition describes a formula. Both describe what an article is intended for, which is why the statute can treat two identical jars differently and why no laboratory test will tell you which one you have. The determination is made from the presentation, and the presentation is something you write.
What being a drug would actually mean
Not a stronger cosmetic. A different regulatory regime, with approval or monograph compliance, a Drug Facts panel, and labeling rules that have nothing to do with 21 CFR 701. A grooming product marketed with a drug claim and labeled as a cosmetic is not a borderline case; it is an unapproved drug that is also misbranded.