Where the rule names embroidery
On this page10
Most spines in this library do not name the craft
They name a substance, a hazard, a volume or a product class, and the craft has to be read into them. Part 303 names embroidery outright.
It appears in the trimmings section
Trimmings incorporated in articles of wearing apparel and other household textile articles are exempt from the Act and regulations, with exceptions, and the list of what counts as trim includes decorative trim whether applied by embroidery, overlay, applique, or attachment.
Four application methods treated as one thing
Embroidery is stitched through, overlay sits on top, applique is a shaped piece attached at its edges and attachment covers the rest. The rule does not care which, because what it is measuring is the decoration, not the technique.
And the general position is an exemption
Trimmings are exempt. The list of what may count as trim is long: rickrack, tape, belting, binding, braid, labels, collars, cuffs, wrist bands, leg bands, waist bands, gussets, gores, welts, and findings.
Including threads added in minor proportion for structure
Elastic materials and threads inserted in or added to the basic product or garment in minor proportion for holding, reinforcing or similar structural purposes. So a seam thread is trim, and exempt.
But decorative trim has a condition attached
The exemption holds for decorative trim only while it does not exceed 15 percent of the surface area of the article. Above that the exemption stops applying to it.
Which is a different quantity from the five percent rule
Weight in one place, surface area in the other, in the same part of the same title. The two thresholds are not comparable and are not meant to be.
And a decorative pattern woven in is treated the same way
Decorative patterns or designs which are an integral part of the fabric out of which the article is made fall under the same 15 percent limit, so a jacquard and an applied applique are measured alike.
None of which reaches a spool of floss on a shelf
Part 303 governs the fiber content statement on a finished textile fiber product. Floss, needles, beads and hoop hardware are not that, and nothing on these pages says they are.